Wednesday, December 31, 2008

End of Semester One

It's been a very quick four months for me since I started at the University of Leeds this year. Everything has gone by in a blur of meeting new people, learning new things, and having new experience after new experience.

I think the most important thing is that I'm really enjoying it. It's probably difficult to judge whether you're happy or not at a certain time in your life, because there's always something that could bring you down, so it's easier to think about happiness in retrospect. But whenever I've taken a step back from everything, I've realised that I am very happy at University.

It could have gone either way, but I was so lucky with my flatmates, coursemates and lecturers/ teachers, that I enjoy every day there.

I started my Christmas holiday on 12th December, and Semester Two starts on 26th January. But there is a two-week exam period that I have to go back to Leeds for starting on 12th January.

I have four exams, one each in English and Japanese, and then the other two are my elective modules. This means that, just like in the A-level years, the Christmas holiday is not a time for resting!

I made a revision timetable and I'm trying to stick to it. It's difficult though, with relaxing with my family over Christmas, celebrating New Year, and the extreme cold! After a warm spell before Christmas, where it was nearly 10C every day, the temperature has plummeted to -4 or -5 at night, and -2 during the day. I can't remember a winter as cold as this in my life. Snow started as early as November and we've had several snowy days so far. I'm hoping that, as the last two summers in Britain have been pretty dire, the arrival of a freezing winter means that next summer will be steamy and hot. Fingers crossed!

Anyway, too much about weather perhaps! The exams are causing me stress, because I need to pass all my compulsory modules to go to Japan next year. But the pass boundary is 40% so it's quite low. I was surprised.

For anyone who doesn't know how University marking systems work, this is my understanding of it:

0-39% - fail
40-49% - third
50-59% - 2:2
60-69% - 2:1
70%+ - first.

To get the credits for a module, you simply need to pass with 40% or more, and I need at least 100 credits from the available 125 for Year 1 to go to Japan.

About two weeks before we broke up for the holiday, we had two meetings about the year abroad in Japan. I was surprised to find out that we have to do a lot of the organisation ourselves. We book, and pay for, our own flights to Japan, and have to arrange our own travel this side and in Japan. But what is good is that the University sorts out our Japanese University applications and student visas.

Also, our choice of Universities in Japan is limited because it is one of our teachers that decides where we'll go. We were given a questionnaire asking for our preferences in relation to where we want to go next academic year, although there was no space to actually write the name of the University, leaving the result very open!

I am very keen to go back to Tokyo because I enjoyed it so much last time, but I wouldn't mind if I was placed elsewhere as there might be less English and more opportunities to see new parts of Japan.

In Tokyo, there are four Universities we can be placed in; Tokyo University of Foreign Studies (TUFS), International Christian University (ICU), Hosei University (法政大学) and Gakushuin Women's University (学習院大学).

Being a male, Gakushuin is out of the equation, and the TUFS and ICU campuses are quite far out of the main city area in West Tokyo. However, the Hosei campus is near Shinjuku (新宿), in the dead centre of the metropolitan area.

But, I have given in the questionnaire, and should find out where I'll be going some time in February, well into Semester 2.

In Semester 1, I had to give in two assessed essays, one for South-East Asian Studies, and another for English. The English one was more important, as SE Asian Studies is an elective module, so I spent 30 hours on in. In hindsight, this wasn't necessary, but I was very worried that I had forgotten how to write an essay over my gap year so I wanted it to be good. I had to use IPA (the International Phonetic Alphabet), which I only knew a bit about from one of my Chinese housemates who used it to study for his English exams, but it was actually a very interesting essay to write. I will find out the marks for those essays sometime at the beginning of Semester Two.

Overall, my first semester of University has been incredible. I've made lots of new friends and learned so many new things, it's hard for me to write everything down. All I know is that I hope Semester 2 is as successful and enjoyable as the first.

This will be the last post of 2008, as it's New Year's Eve, and I will definitely be celebrating the most important year of my life so far as best I can this evening! So much has happened, I'm glad I have this blog to look back over it, because otherwise I'm sure I'd forget a lot!

Have a very happy New Year!!

Monday, October 13, 2008

Japanese at The University Of Leeds

I am now three weeks into studying English & Japanese at University. My family drove me up to Leeds on Saturday 20th.

I was very sad to say goodbye to them that evening, but there was none of the nervous anxiety that should have accompanied that day, because I knew I was just up the road from them. Three hours driving doesn't compare to twelve hours flying in any way.

I settled in quite quickly, and Freshers' Week was lots of fun. It was much less partying, and more sorting things out and getting used to the campus and the residence, than I expected. But that's fine for me. Although I did go out a few times of course!

On Monday 22nd, I had to take a Japanese placement test with other first-years who had prior knowledge of Japanese. That was a bit stressful, having a full-on hour-long test on the first proper day, but it wasn't too bad in the end. Several people did get up and leave the exam in the middle of it, because they decided it was too difficult. I felt for them because my reaction to the first page was: aargh!

The test was comprised of a grammar section, two translation sections; English to Japanese and vice versa, and a composition essay. The grammar was definitely the hardest part for me, because, being self-taught, I don't have a great amount of knowledge of how the sentences are put together, but the translation wasn't too bad. The English-Japanese was easier because if you don't know a word's direct translation, you can paraphrase it or use a similar term, but if you couldn't read the Japanese, then there was no way you could put it into English.

In the essay I just wrote about myself, because it was a 自己紹介 (self-introduction), and I said about my trip to Japan and my favourite Japanese bands and things like that.

I found out if I passed the next morning, and I did. They didn't give me any feedback, but other people were told if they only just passed, or if they passed with flying colours, or whatever.

They say that if you're a borderline pass, then they let you go through and see how you do then. If you pass the placement test, you go into an Intermediate class.

My class has about 10 people in it, but the number varies from lesson to lesson for the first two weeks, because that's the 'trial period' where they judge if you're good enough to stay in or not. It wasn't as big a deal as I expected though, and at the end of the two weeks they just told us to buy the Intermediate textbooks and that was it.

The Intermediate textbooks are:

短期集中初級日本語文法総まとめポイント20 (Tanki shuuchu shokyuu Nihongo bunpou sou matome pointo 20) - this book revises all the grammar you're meant to know for the course

日本語中級J301 (Nihongo chuukyuu J301) - this is the general textbook to work through

みんなの日本語初級II漢字英語版 (Minna no Nihongo shokyuu II Kanji Eigo-han) - the only Minna no Nihongo textbook the Intermediate class uses is the one devoted to the next lot of kanji. You are expected to know the 200 or so taught in the first of this series, and this adds an extra 300 to that.

The other people in my class all seem to have spent a year in Japan, or done A-level Japanese, or both, which is scary. With most of them, if you don't look at them while they speak, you could actually think they were Japanese. There's no way my speaking is that good. In fact, I do feel like I'm towards the bottom of the group because they all have formal learning experience, but the teachers seem to think that I can manage it. If anyone does find it really difficult later on in the course, we can move down into the Beginner group.

I feel that my level is somewhere between the Beginner and Intermediate classes, but it's much better to be stretched and challenged, than to be bored out of your mind learning the alphabets I've know since I was 14.

I do have friends in the Beginner group, and they say that it's all pretty basic at the moment, but obviously very intensive. The aim is to get everyone to A-level standard by Semester 2 (which starts in January/ February).

The Beginner class is made up of most of the year-group, (in fact, there are 2 or 3 Beginner classes) which this year is about 30-40, one of the biggest years they've ever had apparently. They study from the みんなの日本語 (Minna no Nihongo) textbooks. They move quickly, studying the first set in Semester 1, and the second in Semester 2. That means that the books are extremely expensive (I only had the three to buy for Intermediate, and they came to £75 in total). The best deal I can find, and others have said the same, is The Japan Centre in Piccadilly Circus, London. You can order books and lots of other things online. They seem to have most of the Minna no Nihongo series in stock, but not the Intermediate ones.

Except for one new teacher, all of the teachers are native Japanese. This is great because it means you can be exposed to real Japanese all through the lessons and seminars.

I have also joined the Japanese society, which costs £4 for the year, and they do lots of events like karaoke, which of course I love. Also, there are lots of Japanese exchange students (留学生, ryuugakusei) who are members, who are happy to practise Japanese and English with you.


The only real lecture I have is Japan Inside-Out once a week, in which we study the geography, history, literature etc. of Japan. It's really interesting so far. In fact, all of University has been amazing. It's such a great experience, meeting new people and studying new things. But of course it's a lot of work, last weekend I spent 9 hours studying on Saturday, and then 6 hours on Sunday, and still hadn't finished what I had to do. But then my flatmates and I made a gorgeous roast dinner, which we had shopping for and then split the cost of. It was so good. Proof that students don't just live off beans and toast!

The only warning that comes with the course is that if you are in the Beginner class and don't pass the Semester One exam in January, you can't go to Japan as an exchange student in the second year. And of course, you have to pass the year to progress to year two. Intermediate students don't have to pass a particular exam, but they must pass the year's compulsory modules with at least 100 credits.

If anyone is thinking of doing this course, or applying to Leeds University, I really recommend it!

I took these photos around Leeds on a particularly lovely day.


Exhaustion

This is something I forgot to write about when it actually happened, but I thought I should add it in retrospect.

After I got back from Japan on 7th August, I went on holiday with my family to Norfolk on the 10th. I was okay for the first two or so days there, but then I became so tired every day. I ended up sleeping for around 10 hours every night, and then anything except sitting around and eating made me tired.

It wasn't very pleasant because I sometimes had to take a nap after going out to recharge some lost energy.

If you experience this, don't worry, because it passed after a week and then my sleep pattern was normal and I had energy in the day again.

I guess it was just caused by the stress and everything finally ending once I was back at home. I was so busy during that last month in Japan, I didn't had time to relax or reflect on anything.

It may have just been me though, so don't take it for granted that you will be that tired once you return from travelling!

Friday, August 29, 2008

Time and Time Again

After being in Britain for three weeks now, and having been on holiday here twice (hence the huge gap between posts because I didn't have internet), I've kind of had time to reflect on the whole trip.

I've found that I have certain memories that stick out above all the rest, but mainly I feel happy about the whole thing. When I think about it, the over-riding emotion is happiness. Happiness that I could go, that I had the opportunity to see amazing things and meet amazing people, who I am still in contact with now.

It also seems incredibly short. Seven months is not a long time, even if it felt like it was back in January when the journey was stretching ahead of me. I could have stayed longer in Japan, but I had to come home.

I feel so lucky. Lucky is the word I think. Lucky to be able to do these things. I feel much more mature, and like my life is richer now.

Looking back over my 5,000 photos and videos (yes, I know...), and showing them to my family and friends, is just great. I can open up Japan for people who still confuse it with China, and let them see what a beautiful and interesting country it is.

The word that fits it in Japanese is 懐かしい (natsukashii), which means 'fondly remembered'. And that's definitely what my Japan trip is, fondly remembered.

And now, I have three weeks before University starts in Leeds. I'll be studying English and Japanese so I'm studying Japanese grammar and kanji before I go. My aim is to learn 500 kanji before I start the course. We'll see if it happens! 104 down, just a few more to go...

頑張ります!

Thursday, August 7, 2008

I'm Back Home!

I'm actually back!

Very tired and a little confused, but definitely back in Britain!

I will write about my flight properly soon, but it went without a hitch. It was extremely sad to leave my guesthouse and my housemates, but I knew that it had to happen. I said goodbye to everyone, and everything, and really had to fight myself to stay as composed as possible. I was leaving my home of seven months.

My Chinese housemate, very kindly, came to Tokyo City Air Terminal on Thursday morning to wave me off. It was incredibly sad to say goodbye to him, because he was very kind. I waved until the bus rounded the corner and he was gone.

On the bus to the airport, which cost Y2,900, I was having real flashbacks to various times during my trip. I know it sounds like something you see in a film, with grainy black and white images representing memories, but the journey was actually filled with random images of people, places and emotions.

At the airport, I sent emails to some people from my phone, and told them I was safely ready to go, and thank you for everything.

I couldn't believe I was leaving Japan. The last few days there didn't feel real.

On the plane, I looked through the selection of music you can make your own playlist out of, and I found some songs that meant a lot to me while I was in Japan. I feel I must admit that Touch My Body, by Mariah Carey, was included, but I probably heard that song more than any other over the last seven months.

I only slept for about 90 minutes the night before I left, and had maybe 3 hours of broken, uncomfortable sleep on the plane.

But somehow I stayed awake and alert, probably from adrenaline, until 11pm at home. My mum, brother and cousin met me at Heathrow airport in London, and then we had lunch in a pub (so British) and drove up to Birmingham.

The over-riding feeling was a dream-like state that I found myself in. It felt like I was just in Britain for a little bit, and I'd be returning 'home' to Tokyo soon.

Once I got home, everything felt strange, lovely, but very strange. It didn't quite register that I was at home. My real home, in Birmingham.

I knew that, after a few days, Japan would feel like the dream, but for now, Japan is still my reality.

I can't find the words, and that's not because I lived in a non-English speaking country, to describe how absolutely amazing my trip to Japan was.

The way my personality, outlook, and life has changed as a result is more than I ever expected. I can't recommend doing something like this enough.

Although I was sad to leave, I'd much rather be sad to leave because I enjoyed it, than be happy to go because it was a painful, trying seven months.

And sometimes it was difficult, looking back at it, and I did feel a bit homesick at times, but the memories and experiences I have now make up for it a thousand times.

I have to close that chapter of my life behind me now, and look forward to University in September, where I'll study English & Japanese, and after that, in September 2009, I will return to Japan as an exchange student to study for one year.

An exciting four years lie ahead of me!

And I can't wait.

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

All Ready To Go!

Well, I'm sitting down with all my bags around me. It's 3.30am and my flight is at 10.55am from Narita Airport.

I'm all checked out and ready to go.

Today has been so emotional, saying goodbye to my friends, to my room, to the life I've had for the last seven months.

I gave all my housemates presents and we went out for a lovely meal at a nearby restaurant. It was so fun, but I had a nagging sadness that kept telling me I was leaving in a few hours.

And now it's a mere four hours before I have to go to Tokyo City Air Terminal to catch the bus to the airport.

And in less than 24 hours I'll be back at home in Birmingham, England.

How strange.

How wonderful.

My next post will be from home, so wish me luck for the flight!

I can't believe it's over.

Thursday, July 31, 2008

One Week Left

I can't believe it.

Time is really slipping away from me. I have no idea where the seconds, minutes, hours, days and weeks are disappearing to. I'm trying to ignore it and concentrate on where I am now, but there's always that nagging countdown in the back of my mind.

I know that 7 days from now I'll be on the plane somewhere over Russia. I can't believe it.

This last week will be extremely busy, and I have loads to do. Lots of people are asking me to go to places with them, or meet up for a final drink, but I can't do it all!

I have to think about packing, and leaving Sakura House, and closing my bank account, and everything else.

Unfortunately, because I have so much to do, I don't have time to write up everything in my blog now. I will do the most important things as they happen, but when I get back to Britain I will finish writing about my friend's visit, and my trip around Japan, because there aren't enough hours in the day to do it now!

I am sorry about the unorganised look that will give my blog, but the posts will appear in the right order. If you have time, please look back at the blog as new posts slot into place. I will definitely fill in the blanks!

Where does seven months go?

My Trip: Nara

On Saturday 19th it was Nara!

Nara (奈良) is a small city south of Kyoto, and it's full of temples and shrines. It's a former capital of Japan and I think it's perfect to do as a daytrip from Kyoto.

It has a grand total of eight World Heritage Sites, and the largest concentration of these is in Nara Park (奈良公園), which is just 15 minutes walk from Kintetsu Nara station (近鉄奈良駅), but a bit further from JR Nara station (JR奈良駅).

The other sites are further away and more spread out. If you want to visit these too, it's probably better to stay overnight in Nara rather than just do a daytrip, otherwise you'll end up exhausting yourself.

But Nara Park was sufficient for me. It's a really nice place to wander around, finding old temples and getting harrassed by deer.

I got up quite early, which meant that I was a bit tired for the whole day, and it was hot too, around 35C, which didn't help my energy levels!

I walked to Kyoto station and took the Kintetsu Nara line (近鉄奈良線) . I bought a Limited Express (特急) train ticket for Y1,100. Those tickets are reserved automatically so you're guaranteed a seat if the train isn't already full.

I was in this double-decker car. I've seen lots of these around but never been inside one. I was on the top level so I like to think that I had a good view.



The train was very direct, making only one stop at Yamato-Saidaiji station, and arriving within 35 minutes. I got to Nara at 11.05, just in time for the heat of the day! I walked up the road from the station and it was obvious where the Park was. I found some shade and put some sun cream on (yes, it was that hot) and then made my way to the first sight on my list.

On the way, I passed this woman who made the mistake of feeding the deer being attacked by hordes of hungry animals. You can buy deer food at numerous stalls all over the place.

Heralded as the star attraction of Nara, my first stop was Todai-ji (東大寺). This ancient Buddhist temple boasts the largest wooden building in the world, and the largest Buddha statue in Japan.

The first thing you see as you approach is the impressive wooden Nandai-mon (南大門).

Inside the gate, on either side, are fearsome carvings of Nio guardians, protecting the temple from evil spirits.

Through the gate, you then see this great building. This is the largest wooden building in the world, but it's only two-thirds of its original size.


This is the home of Japan's largest Great Buddha (大仏, dai butsu). The Kamakura Buddha is the second biggest.


This Buddha's head is a slightly different colour to its body, as a result of many fires and earthquakes in the past decapitating it on numerous occassions.


The route round the hall takes you behind the Buddha. There is a hole in the bottom of a pillar here, which, if you can squeeze through, guarantees you enlightenment.




Looking at the size of the hole, I'm happy to stay in this world thanks.

After the cool interior of Todai-ji's main hall, the sun was a bit of a shock. I started walking up the hill, but midday was a little too intense so I stopped for lunch in a restaurant.

Having recovered a bit, I made my way to Nigatsu-do (二月堂) and Sangatsu-do (三月堂), which are both a walk up the hill from Todai-ji. From them, there's a nice view of Nara Park and the city behind.


There was an artist painting a lovely view of the temples and the Park. If I'd had time, I'd have loved to sit and watch him finish it.


I followed the recommended route in the Lonely Planet Japan guide down the hill, pass lots of deer, to Kasuga Taisha (春日大社).

Kasuga Taisha is famous for the hundreds of lanterns that line it's pathways and halls.





This tree was huge! You can see the sign that accompanied it below the photo.




As you leave the Shrine, you can see loads and loads of lanterns along the road that leads through the cool shady wood.



After that, I headed out to the slightly far-away temple of Shin-Yakushi-ji (新薬師寺). It took a while to find it, following the path through the forest and out of the main city area, but it gave me time to think about things and reflect on what I'd seen so far.



After the temple, I looked at a map and found the right road back to Todai-ji. Admittedly, I did get a little lost and had to ask for directions, but it's all part of it!

Back in the Todai-ji area, I searched for Isui-en Garden (依水園), which was recommended in the guidebook. But when I say 'searched', I mean searched. It took me absolutely ages to find it, and I asked about five different people. And maybe it was because of that, or the heat, or my tired legs, but when I finally got there, it wasn't as impressive as I thought it would be. It was a nice Japanese garden, but no different from others I'd visited.



That's the art museum, Neiraku Bijutsukan (寧楽美術館), which is within the garden grounds. I didn't go in though because I was getting too tired!



After Isui-en, I walked back towards Nara Station and made my last stop of the trip to Nara, Kofuku-ji (興福寺). It's meant to have two famous pagodas, but try as I might, I could only see one.

There was also an interesting building past the pagoda, which is worth a look if you have time. But, if you're on a tight schedule, don't bother with Kofuku-ji, go to the more impressive sights.

I caught the 16.30 train back to Kyoto, so it was one of the earliest finishes to a day I'd had on my trip. I arrived back at Kyoto station after listening to the Gwen Stefani album (I'd forgotten about all the Japan references that made a lot more sense after living there!)

I took a couple of photos and videos of Kyoto station and Kyoto Tower opposite the main entrance.





I went back to my hotel and then headed out again to find dinner at about 5.30. I found an okonomiyaki (お好み焼き) restaurant and decided to try Kansai-style savoury pancakes. After I ordered, they lit a fire under my table and brought the ingredients to the metal section in front of me. They cooked it all there, so I could watch it brown and sizzle away.

The finished pancake!

The meal was delicious, but the icing on the ... pancake, was the waitress' laugh. I'm not exaggerating at all, she actually laughed exactly like Patty and Selma from The Simpsons. It even ended with a throaty cough and spluttering.

On the way back to the hotel, I passed a restaurant called Iimura where my family and I ate dinner one night in April, and also a random giant teddy bear that was sitting on a chair outside a chair, that my brother couldn't help hugging.

Later on, after a bath in the ryokan, I took advantage of the free internet in the hotel's annex. I checked my emails and Facebook, and updated my friends and family of my movements.

As you can imagine, it was as hot and humid as ever outside, but with the help of air con, I slept very well.

Friday, July 25, 2008

My Trip: Peace Museum & Kiyomizu-dera, Kyoto

Because I didn't sleep very well on Thursday night, it was a struggle to get up for my 8.30am breakfast on Friday morning. The World Friendship Centre give you two choices for breakfast time, 7.45 or 8.30, so you can imagine which I immediately chose!

I said goodbye to the Hawaiian girl I had met several times over the previous two days, and we exhanged contact details. I also gave my email address to the Canadian family I met twice by chance the day before. They even invited me to stay with them if I ever go to Canada!

I checked out, after paying and thanking Kent and Sarah very much for being such good hosts. It really was a great place to stay, and I told them that.

To be honest, I was a little nervous about going to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, because I'd heard so many stories about it being overwhelmingly sad. But I knew I had to go.

It's extremely good value for money, entrance is a mere Y50 (25p) and there are free lockers for luggage. The Museum is very central, located in the Peace Park.

I won't describe everything in detail like I normally would for two reasons.
The first is that most people know the events that led up to the bombing, and the results of the bomb very well. If you don't, this website seems full of information.
And the second is that I don't want to spoil it if you do visit. And I hope you can.

I did take some photographs throughout the museum.




This is a famous exhibit. A watch frozen at the precise second the bomb exploded over the city.


The last area, in the Main Building, was the most moving. The photos and videos below are of things that touched me most in the entire exhibition.





I don't think this photos is very clear, but the dark patch on the steps is somebody's shadow, etched into the stone.

Further away from the blast, dark patches on clothes or paper were burned away, while the lighter colours remained intact.

There's a photograph of this in my old A-level Geography textbook. It's called Black Rain (黒雨, kuroame). This toxic rain fell after the attack for several hours, staining walls like the one below.

There were lots of graphic photographs of burn victims, and vivid explanations of what radiation poisoning does to the body. This is one of the more tame pictures.


I spent a total of 3 and a half hours inside the museum. There were so many different things there, and I made a conscious effort to read everything and see each exhibit in detail. I could have done it in 90 minutes if I hadn't gone so carefully.

There was so much variety inside the Museum. There were drawings by hibakusha (A-bomb survivors) of skeletons stripped of their flesh, still standing up where they died; touchable artifacts recovered from the destruction; graphic photographs; lots of videos; and even real sections of buildings or walls taken from their original positions around the city.

I was very pleased that I went. In the end, it wasn't as overwhelming as I expected, so don't worry about going there. Some people might want to skip some sections though, I know I did. It was very sad, and very thought-provoking. It will certainly change your outlook on what happened.

I left Hiroshima at 14.30 on a Nozomi Shinkansen for Kyoto. It was very easy to buy the ticket, as I had the basic fare ticket I described in a previous post.

A few hours, and a few hours of sleep later, I was in Kyoto station. It was extremely humid, as I knew it would be, because Kyoto is infamous for being hot in summer. It's built inside a basin, so heat and humidity settles inside, and no wind can reach it to clear the air.

I was quite comfortable there though, as I'd been there once before with my family. I recognised a lot of things and knew my general way around. Before going to my ryokan (旅館, traditional Japanese hotel), I wanted to see one of the top sights of Kyoto that I didn't manage to get to last time.

I took a bus from the huge terminal outside Kyoto station and arrived there within 20 minutes. On the way up the hill, I spotted two maiko (young geisha) inside a building. I couldn't get too close but I managed to take a photo. I saw one geisha last time I went to Kyoto, but I didn't have time to take a picture, so I'm pleased I could this time.


And here it is! The entrance to one of the most famous temples in Kyoto, if not, Japan.


It's Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺), the sacred water temple. It's famous for its view over Kyoto, and the way the structure is built on struts overhanging the hill. Apparently it's spectacular in autumn when the maple trees burn with oranges, reds and browns all over the hill.




Here's the place where people catch water falling from the waterfall above and drink it to cleanse themselves.


There is a Shrine within the temple's grounds with a famous attraction. There are two stones placed about 18m apart from each other. You have to touch one, close your eyes, and walk to the other without peeking. If you manage to touch the other stone, your wish for love will come true. It's just my luck then that it was closed at 5.30pm!

I left the temple at its 6pm closing time, and I was waiting for the bus back to Kyoto station when it started to rain! It was very heavy, hot rain, and it meant that all the buses were completely full of people. I had to let three go because it was impossible to push myself in.

I did find one that was slightly more empty but it was still very crowded, and of course my huge bags didn't help!

But I got back eventually and then followed the map I'd drawn to my hotel. It's testament to my map-drawing skills that it took over an hour and three people's directions to get there.

It was a nice place, called Ryokan Hiraiwa (旅館平岩). It was another cheap one, only Y14,000 (£70) for three nights, but it was very good quality.

This was my comfortable room inside the ryokan.

I went out to find myself some dinner, taking careful note of where the hotel was, and was shocked to see mist in the headlights of passing cars, even though it was over 30C! So humid!

I passed lots of places I'd seen or been to with my family. A yakitori (焼鳥, grilled meat) bar I went to before was full, and that was disappointing because it was nice there, but I found a different one and ate there.

And in the end, I was pleased that I found it because, halfway through my meal, an Australian guy came and sat next to me. I decided that I should make the first move, as when I meet people, they always start, and I need to be less shy! I pointed out that the English translation of some of the dishes like 'Heart' and 'Gizzard' didn't sound very appetising.

We got to chatting and I found out that he's here for a two-week holiday with his family. In just six days, he said he'd really gotten into J-pop, a topic I love to talk about. He said his favourite singer was Yui, who I like too, so I recommended some songs to him. Of course, I endorsed my favourite band, Perfume, and wrote some of their song titles down for him.

He told me that he stayed in the Tokyo Park Hyatt, which I've wanted to go to for ages! We talked until 10pm, and then swapped email addresses before heading back to our hotels, where I had a lovely hot bath.

It was so nice that I could make new friends on the trip, as I thought that I'd be alone for all of it except the first couple of days in Kyushu. What a great experience!